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Musings of an Energy Nerd

Insulating a Pole Barn

If you can’t create a tight air barrier, it’s hard to insulate your barn

Many pole barns have no wall sheathing or roof sheathing. The lack of sheathing complicates any attempt to insulate this type of building. [Photo credit: Flickr / Cletch]

In its most basic form, a pole barn is a fairly simple agricultural building or storage structure with widely spaced posts rather than studs for framing. Back in the 1930s, farmers often used old utility poles to build these buildings. Since the poles were usually deeply buried (typically 4 to 6 feet deep), they provided both foundation and vertical structure.

These days, most pole barns are more sophisticated than the dirt-floored pole barns of the 1930s. Pole barns have evolved into so-called “post frame buildings,” and an entire industry has sprouted up to build them. Instead of used utility poles, post frame buildings use pressure-treated 6x6s or 8x8s for posts. While many post frame buildings still rely on buried posts, others have conventional concrete foundations. Even when posts are buried, it’s common to install a slab floor after the roof has been installed.

Between the widely spaced vertical posts, these buildings have horizontal girts, generally 2 feet on center. Typically, 2×4 or 2×6 lumber is used for girts. The girts are covered on the exterior with siding (usually, steel panels).  Some, but not all, post frame buildings have OSB sheathing between the girts and the siding.

Common in rural areas, many post frame buildings are used as barns, equipment sheds, and hangars. More elaborate post frame buildings are used for a variety of commercial buildings or even homes.

In this article, I’m going to use the term “pole barn” to describe simple structures with widely spaced poles or posts rather than studs to support the roof. The buildings I’m talking about are uninsulated and usually lack sheathing. In most cases, the siding consists of either vertical boards nailed to horizontal girts, or steel panels nailed to horizontal girts. These buildings have either a dirt floor, a gravel floor, or a concrete slab…

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13 Comments

  1. Walter Ahlgrim | | #1

    Martin
    Can you offer any help to those who happen to have the pole building cousin the steel building? In the steel building all the wood is replaced with steel I beams and stamped steel Z purlins.

    I read you do not recommend applying foam directly to the steel siding. If someone were to apply the foam to the steel, how risky would that wall be in terms of will the steel be more or less likely to rust?

    1. User avater GBA Editor
      Martin Holladay | | #2

      Walter,
      I suppose it would be possible to either:

      1. Install nailbase or SIPs on the exterior side of the existing steel siding and steel roofing, followed by new housewrap and new roofing underlayment, and new siding and new roofing; or

      2. Temporarily remove the existing steel siding and steel roofing, and install nailbase or SIPs on the exterior side of the existing steel framing, followed by the reinstallation of the original siding and roofing.

      In either case, expensive work.

  2. mikeysp | | #3

    Thank you Martin! Tomorrow, I begin sawing lumber for my barn and this article could not be more timely. -Mike

  3. Scott Barkdoll | | #4

    Martin
    I respect your ideas and input greatly however Pole buildings Are one of the BEST ways to build on a budget and the Post frame Industry Has been Insulating them FOR Decades Please Inform your self and welcome the chance to learn, FROM the Post frame Community they are a great outfit MANY of these buildings are used and Heated owned by farmers an tradespeople all Over the midwest and north as well as situations Like cold storage which Flips some of the priorities of vapor etc, This details are easy Just Details.

    The post system LENDS its elf to the double frame style of building with blown In celluslose etc.
    You can typically Line The whole frame with a building paper system to create an exterior air bairrier.
    I have personally installed many Metal roofs the following way,
    Bare rafters 1st, a layer of Tyvek etc start at the ridge and work down with the rafters Lightly stapling into the rafters, Over lap the rows lengthways on a rafters every 4 or 8 feet, Tape seams if you wish, sealing the air barrier, or similar Materials Directly on top of the rafters and down lapped OVER the wall to throw any Dripping water out side the wall barrier or drip onto the soffit Vent area for quick drying. Then put Purlins Over top of a the air barrier next the the Metal roof all Condesation dripping is now Outside The insulation layer and Can run down Toward the soffit venting and evaporate as soon as The day warms Etc I have 20 Plus years and 6 Large build done this way No Isuues.
    One could use The newer. Roof "papers" and basically Create a really durable Vapor layer. Much tougher than just the thin "wall" papers.
    Scott Barkdoll

    1. User avater GBA Editor
      Martin Holladay | | #5

      Scott,
      Thanks for sharing your experience. This article is called "Insulating a Pole Barn," not "Insulating a Post Frame Building," for a reason. In my article, I noted that post frame buildings "are used for a variety of commercial buildings or even homes," and I also described an extremely tight and well-insulated post-frame building designed by David White and Ben Freed.

      If you're planning a new construction project, and want to use the post frame approach for a new insulated building, it is quite possible top do so -- as my article noted and you have confirmed. But if you have an old pole barn on your property, the challenge is much harder.

    2. mikeysp | | #6

      Scott, do you have a link to a page or video detailing what you explained above? Thank you. -Mike

  4. Jaccen | | #7

    I feel like this article will eliminate half of the replies mods will need to dole out in the Q&A section going forward. Excellent read.

  5. mikeysp | | #8

    I am trying to make sense of Scott's post. I am building a pole barn soon, that will become a shop in the next year. Began sawing lumber for it yesterday. I want to do the smart, BUT squeezing essential steps to have a pretty good shop when I am done. Scott made it sound like his details were low budget high efficiency. I am left to guess what he meant and I guess this is because of my limited knowledge of post frame construction. I drew up this to see if I understood him correctly? Thank you. -Mike

    1. User avater GBA Editor
      Martin Holladay | | #9

      Mike,
      Do you intend to heat your shop in winter or cool your shop in summer? If so, you want plywood or OSB sheathing on the exterior side of the girts and purlins -- that way you can create an air barrier.

      1. mikeysp | | #11

        That is what confused me about Scotts post. It seemed he was saying just use the building paper as the air barrier. I will plan to use OSB or ply for an air barrier which was my take away before I read Scott's post.

  6. mikeysp | | #10

    Martin, that is the challenge for me. I want to option to add heating and cooling, but also to just open the doors in summer and close them in winter. Note, I am in zone 4a and this is the wettest place I have ever lived (just west of Nasville); so, humidity...mold is a concern. Can I have my cake and eat it too? -Mike

    1. User avater GBA Editor
      Martin Holladay | | #12

      Mike,
      I don't understand your confusion. Just because you install a heater, doesn't mean you have to turn the heater on. You can turn the heater on or off whenever you want. You can open the doors whenever you want. It's your shop -- use it how you want.

      1. mikeysp | | #13

        Thank you Martin. I am a little dense in analysis paralysis at times. I imagined a mold factory if I did not run an A/C or dehumidifier in a tight shop building.

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