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2 Answers

Like to replace existing antique 3 tube and fin radiators in my old house but I'm not sure how many BTU's per foot they produce.

Attachment shows 2 tube, 3 tube, and 4 tube (I'm not even sure what this style is called). I have the 3 tube arrangement throughout the house and I would like to be confident that when I upgrade, I'm getting more heat for each room in this 1650, modestly insulated, house.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By JamesRMillar | Jul 5 18
2 Answers

Mini split head placement

I want to put a 24,000 BTU mini split into a single story structure that measures about 36 X 24. It is divided into one long space and three bedrooms across the back. I know I won't get anything into the BRs without open doors but the simplest location is on one of the narrow end walls in the main area. My question is whether the unit will adequately condition the whole space or if the localized feedback from the one end will control temps and the far end won't get cool. Or is it small enough that with the air movement I don't need to worry?

In Mechanicals | Asked By DavidAtAshby | Jul 6 18
3 Answers

Trane XV18 heat pump: How low does it modulate?

Anybody know how low the Train XV18 heat pumps can modulate, in both cooling mode and heating mode?

I'm specifically interested in the 2-ton model.

Also, anybody know the max heating capacity at 17 F?

The info is very easy to find for Carrier variable speed heat pumps, but I can't find anything from Trane itself detailing the specs of Trane's variable speed heat pumps.


In Mechanicals | Asked By Aun Safe | Jul 1 18
16 Answers

MOST efficient wall construction for cold climate?

Im a contractor currently designing my own dream house in Quebec. The idea is that the home will eventually be Net Zero, which means I'd like the house to be as energy efficient as possible.
so is there a consensus? my insulation guy is telling me that the best is a 2x4 construction with horizontal 2x3's on edge, filled with 5" of urethane. (VERY little thermal bridge, super tight, etc)... any thoughts please?

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By user-7107493 | Jul 3 18
10 Answers

Performance / value: Building envelope question

I'm building a new home in Parker, CO and am researching building envelope options. I love all the great information I've read here, but I've found in my research that often the questions I've seen asked and the responses given involve products well beyond my price point. Our house is a large 2 story walk out - so building envelope costs really add up quick. Additionally, I'm looking for methods that are going to be able to be successfully implemented using average contractors (even if that means more oversight...that's fine).

In Green building techniques | Asked By CoCyclist | Jul 4 18
15 Answers

Exterior drainage plan feedback

As part of my remodel of my lower level (~4' below grade, zone 5a Colorado), I found evidence of some moisture and bulk water issues, though I wouldn't say I classically have a 'wet basement'.

Per the attached drawings, I'm planning on adding drainage as shown, and would welcome any feedback on the plan. I think it is mostly a surface water issue, versus groundwater.

A few open questions:

In General questions | Asked By rossn1 | Jun 25 18
3 Answers

Do I need to remove drywall and vapor barrier when I increase the insulation from 4" to 10"?

I'm expanding a bedroom over my garage to become an in-law apartment. I'll be adding a full dormer on the back. Do I need to remove the drywall and vapor barrier of the existing side wall where the new dormer wall joins to it? The new walls will be 10" double stud. The existing walls are 4" tradition framing. I assume they are insulated with paper-faced fiberglass. The knee wall on the front will also be expanded for more insulation. Do I need to remove that drywall too?

In Green building techniques | Asked By G. Blake Voss | Jul 5 18
1 Answer

Does anyone have any experience with Seemray Windows?


Window shopping; and thanks Martin H. for the recent article on choosing windows that gives an overview by region. Very helpful.

While looking at the various brands my husband tripped over Seemray (German parts); does anyone have any experience with them?

Thanks much as always,

Catherine T

In Green products and materials | Asked By Catherine T | Jul 5 18
14 Answers

Where should I drain condensate from a high-efficiency furnace?

I have a high-efficiency furnace, installed in 1995 and I now do not think the condensate drain was installed correctly. It has now corroded and is leaking inside my basement.

In Mechanicals | Asked By Bob Allison | Jul 3 18
3 Answers

Insulating a 1920 home built with concrete blocks

Hello. We are remodeling a 1920's house. Gutting it completely. It currently has no insulation - unless you count 27 layers of wall paper! We are in NE Tennessee - Zone 4A. We plan on framing the exterior walls on the inside (2x4) and filling them with batt insulation. The concrete blocks are "rock face" popular in the area at the time and are about 10 inches wide and shaped much like present-day cinderblock, but the walls are thicker. The rock face block has been painted on the exterior. The mortar, for the most part is in decent shape and we will repoint the bad parts.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By DarnPotter | Jul 5 18
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