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3 Answers

I want to build a wall in front of a masonry wall that emits moisture.

Dear GBA folks,

This fieldstone carriage house, built in 1910, has 22" thick stone walls (see picture). Inside on the second floor, 2x4 stud walls built about 2" away from the stone are covered with 1" plaster.

In GBA Pro help | Asked By Robert Cramer | Nov 13 17
7 Answers

Insulating a pole barn question(s)

I have a 24’x34’ pole barn that I want to insulate so I can add some intermittent heat while working out there. I live in Iowa. In the winter, we park our cars in the front and my wood shop is in the back. There is a ridge vent along the entire ridge (34’). No soffit vents or gable vents. I do not want to add a ceiling. This isn’t our forever home and only need it insulated enough to trap some heat in while working out there - maybe 3-4 times per month, for a couple hours at a time, during the winter months. I can’t justify the cost of spray foam (So please no advice on spray foam).

In General questions | Asked By Doug Kremer | Nov 15 17
1 Answer

GBA Construction Details criticism & question

First, I thoroughly appreciate the effort to organize and share a large volume of quality construction details on GBA. Excellent information.
However, I'm disappointed that the .dwg versions of details are incredibly time consuming to work with for the following reasons:

1. Details and objects are completely exploded which makes them very inefficient to work with and revise. Leader arrows are not even singular entities and are exploded into 4 separate objects. Hatches are often dozens of exploded objects which is painful to select in order to edit.

In General questions | Asked By Spencer Decker | Nov 15 17
8 Answers

Rim Joist Area

Zone 6 Mpls

Fairly versed on what needs to be done to insulate this area. In my last 1940's house the rim joist area was a cavity in which spray foam or foam board could be placed inside as it had 4-5 inches of depth. Having bought a new house around same age, I begun the beginning stages or remodeling the basement and this was on the list.

In Green building techniques | Asked By M S | Nov 3 17
9 Answers

Does Anyone NOT recommend using Zip R3 in CZ 4 (Northern Virginia)?

We are working with an architect to design a practical and cost-effective 'energy-smart' located Fairfax County, VA (outside Washington, DC). I am not an architect, engineer, or building scientist, so trying to decide on a practical, energy efficient, above-code (tight envelope and higher assembly R values, but not NZER or Passive), durable, cost-effective wall assembly has proven harder than expected.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By user-6777975 | Nov 13 17
2 Answers

Cathedral Ceiling Insulating Best Practices

Hello All,

I'm sure the situation I've gotten myself into is a bit of a novice one, but before I make it worse I wanted to seek out some advice from this wonderful community (wish I had found it sooner). We bought a house and have been doing some serious renovating, the main element of which is vautling the great room. Our contractor and structural engineer completed the actual framing portion of that already, but I've opted to do the insulating and finish work for the actual ceiling. Here's where my predicament has started.

In General questions | Asked By deadmaulwalking | Nov 13 17
13 Answers

double glazing revisited, historic windows, Connecticut winter.

The certain eventual failure, and high price tag of IGU's makes them very unsavory to me. They also look very ugly compared to beautiful old wood windows, I think. Even the best commercially available insulated windows with divided lites do not have the right proportions to match the very narrow muntins of old windows, often as narrow as 5/8". The depth is also too shallow from the top of the muntin to the face of glass- just doesn't look right on an historic New England home.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By MKCF | Nov 9 17
1 Answer

Zone 6 wall construction - Is Zip R sheathing (R12.6) adequate


In Green building techniques | Asked By Jim Cuhel | Nov 14 17
2 Answers

Mitsubishi 1/2 ton head not powering up

Hello, just wondering if anyone has had any issues with a brand new Mitsubishi head not powering up. I have a 5 head system that was just started today and 4/5 the heads powered up just fine with no issues. The 5th head is not being recognized by the branch box, nor will it run in Emergency Operation Mode. There is power to the line terminals.

In Mechanicals | Asked By Mike M | Nov 12 17
9 Answers

WRB and Rigid Foam

Hi Martin/GBA Community,
I'm thinking about installing rigid foam on the exterior with "innie" windows. Would like some thoughts on this set-up, from interior to exterior

Drywall -> 2x4 wall with R-15 Roxul Comfortbatt ->3/4 exterior sheathing -> Tyvek HouseWrap -> 1" R-5 rigid insulation -> Obdyke HydroGap -> Siding

I'm not sure if a WRB behind the foam and in front of the foam is a good idea. WRB behind the foam because that's the drainage plane. WRB in front of the foam is meant to provide a small air space behind the siding.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Mdubya | Nov 9 17
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