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0 Answers

Insulate a Cabin to last

Martin - I've learned a tremendous from you & GBA. This is a 1st asking a question. I'm also an engineer & lic Home Inspector, and I see what happens to homes.
I'm current building a cabin in northern Hayward, WI (Zone 7). I'm on a slab, 20'x26', 1 1/2 story, 2x6 walls 16" OC. I had a local carpenter put up the shell, and the rest is up to me. The cabin is sheathed in OSB, Tyvek, Fascia/soffit, and Anderson windows & door are in. I installed kraft faced R19 Batts in the walls (drywall & siding are not yet installed).

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Dan Musielski | Nov 16 17
1 Answer

Foil vs Bubble Foil or Foam Foil

Hi I'm insulating a shed-like structure on my property to create a comfortable living space. With regard to the tin roof I've been advised to use a layer of Bubble foil on the battens directly underneath the tin and then below that in the remaining ceiling space (above the plasterboard) Fibreglass batts. My question is: In this kind of context will bubble foil give an improved insulating performance over and above foil (sisilation) on it's own directly under the tin? i.e. Is bubble foil worthy of the added cost??

In General questions | Asked By AussieQ | Nov 15 17
7 Answers

Petrol-free home: Petrol-free housewrap

So I've got a plan that promotes petrol-free materials throughout the lion's share of the rehab of my shed, which is a lead-in project to the rehab of my house. It involves now a metal roof; Pavatex as a insulation above the roof rafters and Roxul between the rafters; Airkrete in the wall cavity; and Foamglas beneath the Rosendale Cement-based concrete slab.

Main remaining urgent challenge to get the plans to the buildings department ASAP as far as I can tell: "house wrap" "vapor barrier" situation.

In Green building techniques | Asked By Gregg Zuman | Nov 15 17
4 Answers

Please Help!!! Dimple membrane a necessity?

In General questions | Asked By Rasheed Warith | Nov 14 17
1 Answer

Poor Man's Thermomass

The previous conversation got off on a tangent about material costs and PWF... There was not much uptake on my "Poor Man's Thermomass" idea: http://lakesideca.info/sites/default/files/poormansthermoma...

Since drawing that detail, I have thought about replacing the EPS with rockwool, and have done some research on what the backerboard could be. I understand it can't be Hardibacker or Durock. Perhaps there is another subgrade cementitous board which would be applicable?

In Green building techniques | Asked By Ethan T ; Climate Zone 5A ; ~6000HDD | Nov 15 17
19 Answers

Marine Zone 4 — Wall insulation — addition

Zone: Marine 4
Location: Seattle, WA
House Built: 1915
Square footage: 900 ft2 single story with 900 ft2 finished basement.
Wall height over basement: 12 ft
Current siding: Cedar, Paint in poor condition.
Insulation: not much, some fiberglass bat stuffed in nooks and crannies as they opened walls in the past. And dirty so there is plenty of air gaps.

GOAL: Comfort

In Plans Review | Asked By User-6933356 | Oct 11 17
2 Answers

Should I use a poly-type Membrain sheet or vapor retarder paint for ceiling?

I'm at a crossroads with how to deal with the ceiling vapor retarder in my new construction home in climate zone 5.

I'm prepping for drywall, and am wondering if I should apply Certainteed Membrain vapor barrier to the underside of the studs on the ceiling, and then just have the ceiling drywall screw attached...

-or-

Should I have the ceiling drywall glued and screwed and use vapor retarder paint instead.

I plan on blowing R60 cellulose in the attic when done, and am concerned about it's weight on the drywall.

In Green building techniques | Asked By Adam Peterson | Nov 14 17
3 Answers

Best way to insulate attic

My attic currently has R19 foil faced fiberglass batts installed. I would like to air seal the entire attic and re-insulate with blown in cellulose.
The original plan was to cut EPS to fit between the stud bays and seal with great stuff, followed by the fiberglass and blown cellulose. From my understanding, EPS or any rigid foam is not worth the labor for this particular application.

Should I remove the fiberglass batts, caulk/foam the seams and openings, and then reuse the fiberglass followed by cellulose?

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By craziekeiichi | Nov 13 17
4 Answers

Why caulk between studs, etc?

I understand that a small amount of air can pass through the gap between two or more side-by-side framing members, but so what? Then that air hits the drywall, which is an air barrier. In the middle of a stud bay, that same air is passing through fiberglass batt insulation (not an air barrier) and hitting the drywall. What's the difference? For that matter, why caulk the drywall to the top plate? Isn't the intersection of the wall and ceiling drywall taped and mudded? Isn't that an air barrier?

In GBA Pro help | Asked By JeffSch1 | Nov 8 17
5 Answers

What is maximum safe thickness of rigid insulation for board and batten siding

I'm building timber framed house with light clay infill between posts. For better insulation I plan adding rigid wood fibre board (steico therm + universal). So far I planned to include 4in rigid outside. Such a wall will give me R 25 and lots of thermal mass inside. I wonder If I can add more wood fibre board safely. What I'm afraid of is sagging of my board& batten siding (on furring strips). Sagging means larger holes in insulation board more air infiltration and thermal bridging. I've read some materials on thick rigid insulation in such constriction but test ended on 4in thickness...

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Lech Komendant | Nov 15 17
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