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4 Answers

Open return air system

A year ago I purchased a 7 year old home. In the year that I have owned it, it has constantly been full of dust with my families complaining of constant "allergies". Additionally, the utiliy bills have been high regardless of season. I have an unfinshed mechanical room in the finished basement in which the combustion appliances are located.

In Mechanicals | Asked By Chris Brown | Oct 13 10
3 Answers

well and pump question

I have a very deep well that produces about 20 gpm here in the mountains. It has supplied me with good water for 8 years or so. It is controlled by a pressure switch on the pressure tank which has about a 30 gal capacity. The well head is located some 100 feet from the house and is fed underground by 1 inch pvc water pipe. My question is can i tap into the existing line that feeds the house with a t that would be installed about mid-way between the house and a small apt/studion i am building.?

In Mechanicals | Asked By tom mcgarra | Oct 13 10
2 Answers

Energy Star Details?

Why don't any of the links work on the "How to Build an Energy Star Home: Building Plans for the Thermal Bypass Checklist" page?


In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Brett Moyer | Oct 12 10
3 Answers

USGBC Green Build expo

Can someone post who, if any of the GBA people will be speaking at the expo and what classes. I attended the Re-green session last year with Peter Yost and it was incredibly informative and interesting.
Thank you,

In GBA Pro help | Asked By benjamin mccarthy | Oct 12 10
5 Answers

High Relative Humidity in New Construction House

I live in Seattle (currently 60 degrees, 87%RH) and have just moved into my new construction house - RH 70%. Through the construction process, I have introduced a lot of moisture into the home - damp cellulose insulation, suspended concrete slabs main and second floor, full basement (properly waterproofed with exterior/interior drainage/sump with upslope curtain drain and tightlined downspouts), textured drywall and paint.

In General questions | Asked By Frank OBrien | Oct 10 10
18 Answers

Thoughts on Knauf Ecoseal

Hi all, I'm building a modern house in Seattle (). We're considering upgrading our insulation from standard batt, and one of the most-effective proposals is a very new system by Knauf, called Ecoseal (). It seems to be an elastomeric glue that is sprayed into all joints for airtightness; then standard batts are used after that. Anyone have any thoughts? It sounds good, but I'm wary of choosing a totally new and untested product.

In Green products and materials | Asked By Aseem Agarwala | Sep 21 10
7 Answers

Wall moisture question for Phili area

We are building a passive house in the Philadelphia area and had a wall moisture question. Phili is a very humid climate zone 4 for those of you that don’t know the area.

We are building the home with 2X6 studs. We are going to use sheetrock on the inside, 5.5” of dense pack cellulose, low perm gyp board, 7” Larson trusts on the outside, 7” cellulose, plywood on the outside of the trusts, home slicker, and then vinyl siding. Anyone have any concerns regarding moisture in this wall assembly? If you do what would you do to resolve the problem?

In PassivHaus | Asked By Raymond Evangelista | Oct 10 10
5 Answers

Water proof a concrete slab roof which serves as a roof-top deck

I am looking for a solution that would add minimum thickness to the slab. The deck is surrounded by a railing which would have to be replaced to meet code if the deck surface is raised too much. Two inches would be OK. The initial thought is a membrane but I would like to have a ceramic or manufactured stone tile surface. Is there a membrane material robust enough to accept these materials applied directly on the membrane? Any suggestions for another finished surface?

In General questions | Asked By Murielle O'Hara | Apr 3 09
14 Answers

An energy efficient insulation system for my area?

I am building a new home in Sacramento (No. Cal) and would like it to be as efficient as possible. I've noticed that the design for an insultation system (air/vapor barrier, R value, etc.) depends on your climate. While that seems like an obvious concept I believe that is what is causing some of the confusion for a lay person like myself, particularly in regards to the vapor barrier discussion.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Laura Sainz | Oct 7 10
2 Answers

A new construction wall in a cold climate

I am building a new addition in southern Ontario and would like to use 1" to 1.5" natural stone veneer for the exterior. Stone veneer would be applied over metal lath screwed into studding.

I would also like to use 1" to 2" of rigid foam insulation as exterior sheathing over 2x6 wood stud walls without an interior vapour barrier.

I was hoping to get some help detailing the wall.

Can the metal lath be applied directly over the rigid insulation and screwed in the studs without any wood sheathing anywhere?

In GBA Pro help | Asked By wayne hutson | Oct 6 10
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