Q&A: A Forum for Lakesideca Experts and Beginners

Q & A Instructions

[Click map to enlarge]

The GBAGreenBuildingAdvisor.com web site has a wealth of articles on a wide variety of construction topics. Before posting your question, you may want to check out the articles on this page: How To Do Everything. You just might discover an article there that provides the information you seek.

Please register for a free account or sign in to ask and answer green building questions.

If you want to post a question, the usual rules of courtesy apply:
1. Be nice.
2. If you can't be nice, be polite.
3. If you can't be nice or polite — well, please be brief.

To attach a photo or illustration: Under the box labeled “More explanation,” look for the words “File attachments.” Click that, and you should be able to attach a photo.

Thanks for joining the conversation!


5 Answers

Sealed Crawlspace

Location: Asheville NC
Crawlspace: Dirt Floor, Block Walls (semi-buried as I am on a hillside), Wood Floor Joists above. Exterior walls above block walls are Masonite.
Size: 30x30 with about 10x30 usable with 7 foot ceilings - the other 20x30 is about 4 ft high.

In Green building techniques | Asked By J H | Feb 26 11
1 Answer

What is the best way to insulate a 4'' wall cavity on the interior side of a stone house?

I am working on a stone home in Philadelphia PA that was built in 1920. The exterior walls are 20'' of stone with 4'' studs on the interior with wood lath plaster.
The framing is balloon type . The studs do not have sheething. The concern is if we fill the 4'' void with fiberglass insulation or cellulose the stone will pull moisture into the filled cavity and create mold and mildew.

Any ideas
Don Tejeski

In Green building techniques | Asked By DJ Tejeski | Mar 1 11
8 Answers

Sturdy and long-lasting vinyl windows?

I am researching an article on vinyl windows for Fine Homebuilding, and am looking for feedback and help.

I am not looking for people to explain to me why vinyl is bad and why no one should ever buy a vinyl window. I already know those arguments. I have never installed a vinyl window in any home I have built, and I don't recommend them. (I like fiberglass windows, but that's another story.)

In Green products and materials | Asked By Martin Holladay | Jan 14 11
7 Answers

Exterior rigid foam, traditional stucco

For a building enclosure, would the following stack work?:

- 2x6 walls filled with blown in cellulose
- OSB sheathing
- Tyvek housewrap
- 1" rigid foam
- 3 course stucco

Follow-on questions:

- Should there be anything between the rigid foam and stucco (besides the wire mesh)? I want to be sure to establish this with the stucco contractor, and at this point he feels we can do three course stucco right on the rigid foam.
- What type of rigid foam is best suited for this (XPS, Polyiso)?

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Roger Rogers | Feb 24 11
7 Answers

Larsen truss durability question

Hi,
I'm reading some BSC literature on high R value walls and insulation retrofit strategies.
Document states that Truss wall systems have durability risk based in part on on a perceived danger of condensation on exterior sheathing. Reference is Straube, J., & Smegal, J. (2009). Building America Special Research Project - High-R Walls Case Study Analysis, (which is a dead link on the site, at least for me).

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By David Argilla | Feb 27 11
0 Answers

Anyone have real world experience using StoGuard?

I'm considering using this as a WRB and was wondering if anyone that participates in this forum has any experience using this stuff.

Was it easy to apply?

Has it performed well as a WRB?

Has it, in your opinion, helped to minimize air leakage?

Any drawbacks to using it?

thanks

In Green products and materials | Asked By Jay Hersh | Feb 28 11
1 Answer

How to insulate a sort-of year round cottage

I am adding on to an existing A-frame cottage. The new addition will have a basement with ICF walls and rigid foam under basement slab (we are in Ontario - Zone 6). The walls will be 2 x 6, 24" O.C with mineral wool R-22 insulation and rigid foam on the exterior as per thickness table.(http://lakesideca.info/blogs/dept/musings/calculating-minim...). The main floor ceiling will be insulated with blown-in cellulose to R-40.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Glen Griffiths | Feb 27 11
1 Answer

Gaskets...

I have been looking at a wide range of different building gaskets lately.
I like specialized EPDM gaskets for most applications.
In some instances a non-specialized, flat, sheet-like gasket could be useful.
I often think of polyethylene foam gaskets for these applications.

How good are polyethylene gaskets?
Do they hold up over time?
Do they retain a "memory" after being compressed for years?
Do they become brittle after a while?

In Green products and materials | Asked By Lucas Durand - 7A | Feb 27 11
20 Answers

Partition walls AFTER outer walls?

Looking at a picture of the ADA recently, it occurred to me that installing partition walls after the exterior walls are sheet rocked would eliminate a few lines of goo, and another source of air leakage. What would be the problem w/ doing that? Build the partition wall, stand it up, shim over the top plate, and sheet rock it. No? Thanks. j

In Interior design | Asked By John Klingel | Dec 11 10
16 Answers

How much more efficient is it to put windows in the middle of the opening of a double-wall construction?

It seems to me that sealing a window with flanges on the outside of a double-wall frame house against air and water penetration is easier and more bombproof than fussing with putting the window in the middle of the opening. I am not shooting for Passivhaus standards but want to do what is most practical and efficient.

In PassivHaus | Asked By Tibor Breuer | Feb 18 11
Register for a free account and join the conversation


Get a free account and join the conversation!
Become a GBA PRO!

подробно topobzor.info