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2 Answers

Once again, the New York Times flubs an article on green building

Today's New York Times announces an exciting new type of housing.

The article describes this housing option as:
- "eco-friendly"
- "sustainable"
- "a legitimately green option"

What's the article talking about? Homes made from shipping containers, of course.

Here is the link:

In General questions | Asked By Martin Holladay | Sep 22 17
14 Answers

Typar vs Zip

I was thinking about using the Zip R system sheathing on my house - removing old clapboards, insulating the wall from the exterior and then installing the ZIP R. I just attended a seminar with a Typar house wrap rep who basically said Zip was no good - is not surfactant resistant and not much more that felt paper glued to OSB. But of course this is coming from the Typar rep. Any thoughts on the pros and cons of each?

In Green products and materials | Asked By Michael Mohr | Sep 13 17
4 Answers

Insulation under floor joists in a crawl space

I have recently installed a new tile floor with electric radiant floor heating over a crawlspace and am looking for the most economical way to insulate the floor. If a radiant barrier blocks 97% of the radiant heat is it necessary to install foil faced EPS on the bottom of the joists for more insulation at three times the cost?

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By pickaname | Sep 20 17
3 Answers

Climate Zone 3-strategy for venting or not venting a small attic kneewall space?

Climate Zone 3. I have a Finished Room of the Garage (FROG) with kneewalls that has wood paneling on the finished side. The paneling started to show signs of moisture issues. I removed the paneling and found no mold in the space but elevated moisture (22%). R13 insulation with vapor retarder on warm on winter side is present. There is not much room between the kneewall and the exterior wall of the reverse A. Essentially a double 2x4 wall is it.

In GBA Pro help | Asked By JGood2170 | Sep 22 17
2 Answers

Has RMI finally come up with a good home energy efficiency rating system?

I've said for years that a raw HERS score is useless to an average homebuyer.

In General questions | Asked By Kevin Dickson, MSME | Sep 22 17
16 Answers

How to flash window trim below window

Hi guys, I have been reading a lot about flashing and according to Hammer and Hand, these are the locations that need flashing:

Flashings should be installed:
1. At all horizontal joints between different exterior finishes unless the upper finish overlaps the lower finish.
2. At every offset in cladding, changes in cladding substrate, and at all penetrations (horizontal transitions between siding, stone, brick, tile, or stucco).
3. Where stresses can be concentrated (such as at the rim joist/foundation joint).

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By MichaelBa | Sep 21 17
2 Answers

Shed roof attachment to a wall with exterior insulation

Good morning all,
I'm interested in your thoughts on the detail of how to attach a roof system to a side wall with the following design details:
2x6 framing with dense-pack cellulose
1/2" ply
soletex mento WRB
1.5" roxul comfortboard 80
3/4 furring strips
lap siding.

for the decks and porch I'm hoping to use "Maine Deck brackets"
I'd prefer not to break the exterior insulation shell.

thanks in advance!
-Tom

In Green building techniques | Asked By Thomas Gibson | Sep 21 17
7 Answers

HVAC sizing disparity relative to HERS report

My HERS rater shows heating load of 39,500 Btu/hr and a cooling load of 22,600 Btu/hr on a high performance house I plan to build. This includes 1000 sq ft of basement, 2500 sq ft on the main floor and 800 sq ft in an office/loft area. R40 ceiling, R20 walls, R5 basement and crawlspace wall insulation plus serious air sealing (3 ACH or less).

The HVAC quote shows no system in the basement (it will be finished by me after construction), 3 tons on the main floor and two tons for the loft with all duct work in the conditioned space.

In Mechanicals | Asked By Norman Bunn | Sep 20 17
3 Answers

Cut and cobble - basement ideas?

Hello all,

I'm located in western Washington, zone 4 marine, and we're working on our early 1970s split level. When we purchased the home last year we ended up needing to put in a sump pump and interior footer drain. Since then, we've been monitoring the walls and relative humidity. There's been no new evidence of moisture and later this month we'll be installing a new heat pump and plan to use the dehumidifier function.

In General questions | Asked By Bill Cooke | Sep 19 17
2 Answers

Toughest vapor barrier for floor of crawl space?

We're building a new house, and plan to create a sealed conditioned crawl space. We want to be able to access the space regularly, to inspect for leaks and store a few items. Which vapor barrier would be better able to hold up to regular traffic? We'll probably put a layer of coarse sand underneath it. Unfortunately, a concrete rat slab is out of our budget.

In General questions | Asked By Debra | Sep 20 17
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