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1 Answer

Sealing framing to subfloor

What is the best way to seal bottom plates to subfloors when framing? In my current house, I went around and caulked after the walls were up. Is it better to put a sealant on the bottom plate before raising the wall? How about a 1/4" Sill Seal like Denarco makes? Or an EPDM gasket? My walls are 2x8. I don't want to spend huge amounts of money, so what is most effective, and cost effective?

In Green building techniques | Asked By Kevin Spellman | Feb 23 18
1 Answer

Purchasing electricity

Exploring utility options outside the local utility:

Where do you purchase electricity? What is the cheapest commercial/non-solar source?

Thank you.

In General questions | Asked By Emerson | Feb 23 18
9 Answers

Zehnder HRV/ERV configuration

We got a quote on a HRV/ERV 550 model, we had been trying to decide whether to size down to a 350 or not but I think we're going to stick with the 550 they recommended.

In Mechanicals | Asked By J M | Feb 23 18
5 Answers

Closed-cell or open-cell foam?

With a wall system that consists of 2"x4" wood framed walls, 1/2" plywood sheathing covered with #15 building paper or house wrap and sided with vinyl or cement board would closed or open cell spray foam provide some level of water resistance during a minor flood? Would the sheathing and studs be able to dry? Would rock wool be a better choice for insulation?

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Anthony Swoope | Feb 23 18
2 Answers

Basement insulation

which is healthier for me: cellulose or spray urea foam?

In Green products and materials | Asked By User-7026287 | Feb 23 18
3 Answers

HPWH - To duct or not to duct?, that is the question

As noted in an earlier question, I will be putting a heat pump water heater in my crawlspace. The Rheem unit I have allows ducts. I want to get the maximum circulation of air in my crawlspace to dehumidify it and am wondering if ducting the cooled exhaust to the far end of the crawlspace might be worth it. Rheem says I can use up to 125' of 8" flex duct, which should be more than enough.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Norman Bunn | Feb 23 18
11 Answers

Seal and Insulate 60's Attic?

First off I apologize if this is the wrong category.

I currently have an L shaped ranch style home that was built in 1961 with a 3:12 slope hip roof with 3" overhangs. I currently have three gable vents, and no soffit venting. There is little to no insulation in the walls except on the south and west facing walls where I have opened them up over the years when doing renovations and installed R-13 fiberglass batt insulation. I would probably grade myself a II on install quality. In the attic there is blown in rockwool insulation about 6-8 inches deep.

In General questions | Asked By Striker169 | Feb 22 18
4 Answers

Which would you recommend for exterior insulation in climate 5 Habitat for Humanity home?

I specifically mention Habitat for Humanity, as this means, the work is executed by volunteers and quality control may be an issue. Will the taping and flashing be done exactly right..? Which solution would offer a most "fool-proof" option? I specifically worry about reverse flashing created by somewhat incorrectly installed horizontal tapes. Read couple of articles on that...

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Lucyna de Barbaro | Feb 23 18
12 Answers

Ultimate Air vs. Zehnder HRV

I recall seeing in the comments for the article discussing a new way to duct hrv's that one of the Zehnder reps was disparaging the Stirling Technologies Recoupaerator 200dx for having something to the effect of misleading, incorrect, etc. performance numbers and that it does not stack up to Zehnders products. I was wondering if that rep and anyone else could clarify why the Zehnder product would be better than the 200dx and how they differ in function? The cost of the 200dx is significantly less.

In Mechanicals | Asked By Spencer Burnfield | Sep 4 12
1 Answer

Sealed crawlspace next to walkout basement with HPWH

Greenville, SC
CZ 3A (mixed humid)

Extensive rock has limited the amount of basement I can put in, so I will have a rather tall crawlspace adjoining my walkout basement on two sides. The basement will have interior foam insulation (R-10) on the poured concrete walls, R-20 on the walkout side, and will be unfinished for now. The crawlspace will be sealed and also insulated to R-10.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Norman Bunn | Feb 23 18
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