We are adding a tack room to our barn this summer Climate zone 4a but near the edge with 3a). The reasoning is to provide more secure and better storage…
I was perusing Treehugger.com and came across one of their April Fools articles. ( http://www.treehugger.com/green-architecture/tall-plastic-future-building-america.html ) In it there is a UL video showing how much faster modern furnishings (made…
You may have shot yourself in the foot with the driveway and the well. banks generally won't loan once work has started. They don't want the possibility of a contractors lien against the property. I would imagine (though I am no loan expert) that if you find a bank willing to finance you, you will need at minimum full billing and payment records and possibly some sort of other statement that you have no outstanding debts with those contractors.
Posted: 12:32 pm on July 16th 2016
Sure it's called a dehumidifier. You probably need to rig up a system to pull the air from the ceiling area where water vapor will accumulate first, and reintroduce the dried air at about floor level. That will create a thermal and mechanical push or draw through the dehumidifier. You will still need some form of powered vent to help deal with the stinky times, and likely easier code compliance, but you won't have to use it all that much. The size of the dehumidifier I can't really help you with. I'd bet Martin or Dana have a pretty decent Idea on how much water vapor a typical 120ºF Shower at 2.5 gpm puts out. Of course showering habits, water temperature, and actual shower head water flow will affect that. There may very well also be a health reason not to. The bathroom typically has a fairly high load of Fecal Coliform and E. coli bacteria, and this may help spread those in the bathroom, My gut (and knowledge of how they travel and grow) tells me this shouldn't be a problem, but I'm not comfortable saying that it really isn't going to be one until I see some test results.
Posted: 09:45 am on December 11th 2016
Re: SubfloorIt's best to go ahead and get it dried in. That said I built my house and during the winter and it wasn't until spring that it was fully dried in, and the advantech and I Joist held up fine. However I was also at the job site everyday it rained and got the bulk of the water off the floor to allow for faster drying, and I ran heaters to speed the process. If the crawl is insulated and conditioned your plan won't cause any problems. If it is not insulated and conditioned then I still doubt it will cause problems, if you use a vapor permeable paint. Will it work? Maybe. The places I found where the advantech was able to absorb water were it's edges and at holes. These are places where the paint is not likely to seal well. I think I would go with something like plastic or house wrap, nailed with plastic cap roofing nails. and where the roofing nails go through sealed with a butyl tape so the nails go through the tape. Note the butyl tape needs to stick well to the plastic or house wrap. Also if you go with house wrap use one in which the vapor permeance is part of the base material properties, not one in which holes are punched in later. Tyvek Commercial wrap is a good one. The house wrap and plastic also need to be taped at the seams of course. Also pay attention to the corners, as those could easily wear through the covering.
Posted: 11:36 pm on December 12th 2016
Re: How to detect a roof leak after having the underside of the roof deck sprayed with closed-cell foam?The expensive option is to fir out a 2" ventilation channel between the insulation and the roof deck, assuming you have the ridge vent part of the GAF system installed, and if not add the ridge vent in, and ensure you have enough venting at the eaves. If the roof is leaking it is rotting. It doesn't matter if there is a path for the water to follow or not. The only way to delay or reduce the damage is to have drying potential. With closed cell on the bottom of the roof deck and asphalt on top you won't really have any. But that's not the real reason to vent your roof. The real reason is Ice dams. In Buffalo you get Lake Effect Snow, so you have a fairly high snow load. That Snow acts as insulation warming the bottom of the snow (because your roof is putting out energy) by having a ridge vent, eave vents, and an air channel between roof deck and insulation, you will hopefully keep your roof deck cool enough to prevent the bottom of the snow from melting and thus preventing Ice dams.
Posted: 01:58 pm on March 22nd 2017
Don't worship at the alter of resale value. Yes resale value is important, but profitability is more so. Running a gas line that is not going to be used sinks more money into a project, and that money is not recouped at resale. Where I am (foothills of NC) there are two advantages to gas: water heating and cooktops. With Induction you get the advantages of gas without the massive ventilation needs. Gas still has a sales advantage as you can get almost endless hot water, but that sales advantage does not translate into a high enough price to justify a gas water heater on it's own. The two main deciding factors here are if you are using gas to heat and/or cook with. If you are comfortable in meeting your resale dollar amount without those two (which is highly likely in your market) then skip gas altogether, the money saved equals more money into your pocket.
Posted: 08:13 pm on May 15th 2017
Forget the transfer method, how do they get the self sustaining pile of mortar? I'd love to never mix mortar again. On the other hand they never seem to finish that section they are working on either...
Posted: 11:43 am on May 30th 2017
Love the car port Have you considered putting in a roll down gate, so that you could use the Chevy Volt as an emergency power source and still have the vehicle secured?
Posted: 12:22 am on June 19th 2017
Great Article... One of my issues with the Net Zero Energy house approach is that it only marginally (ok somewhat more than marginally) addresses the seasonal demand difference. I used to follow a thread on the Tesla Owners Club forums about a guy who re-pourposed a couple of Model S batteries to try and go no holds barred off-grid. Granted he didn't do any efficiency upgrades to his house that I can recall but even with roof array and a large ground mount solar array and well over 100kWh of storage he still is connected to the grid and on some days drawing a substantial amount of electricity from the grid (mostly to charge his two Teslas). That scaled across society leads to more expensive electricity and little to no net generation (from non- solar, wind, hydro, etc... sources) capacity reduction. Power plants are expensive and plants that can only recoup their cost a few days or weeks of the year are much more expensive for the customer.
Posted: 03:01 am on September 21st 2017
Response to Martin Sorry Martin, I Probably wasn't entirely clear. What I was trying to say is that even with renewables plus storage, even on the utility scale don't really change peak demands. I know Dana will argue that renewables can meet those demands, and he may be right but I've yet to be convinced partially because of the Tesla guy.
Posted: 04:56 pm on September 21st 2017
Response to Martin, Dana, and Eric Appologies again Martin I was in a rush, and I tend to have trouble with writing (I don't English so good). I completely get what you are saying. But at best storage really just shifts when demand happens, granted that can be a really good thing as peak demand can be lowered, resulting in longer more efficient power plant runs than what a peaker would run. Yes wind and eventually wave power helps reduce those run times, but eventually the wind won't blow and someone will be too far from shore to benefit from wave power. At this time, and into the foreseeable future (yes Dana I know you totally disagree with me here) we're still going to have to burn stuff to generate electricity, and burning stuff even if it is Hydrogen or Methane produced by excess renewables still pollutes, though arguably fuel cells almost eliminate that. Regardless of pollution there will still be a cost that will be paid for by customers. The only way to reduce the need to eventually burn stuff is to reduce demand, regardless on if the peak amount of that demand is shifted to even out the peaks and troughs. That is my argument for needing better than just Net Zero Energy. Unfortunately I don't know how to even start making that argument work economically. And Dana, My apologies to you too I did not mean to set you off on a tangent. I do appreciate your argument, Though I honestly hope it doesn't take you as long to write a response as I take. You're arguments tend to be very well researched and I do appreciate them as I read each link. However I was more referring to seasonal peaks instead of the hourly peaks we normally refer to as peaks. That was the reason I talked about the Tesla Guy, even with his massive solar arrays and huge battery he still had days of massive draws from the grid. Since he is near me I know that on those days he imported power from the grid almost 60% of that power was generated by burning stuff. Yes he could draw at off peak times making reducing the amount of stuff burned by better utilization of the generation capacity. A few days of the year he still needs a certain amount of kWh produced, and that needed capacity is really no different than it was if he had no renewable power generation and a much smaller battery. Eric, I don't think anyone really confuses Dana with being neutral. He's an Advocate for renewable energy (as is Martin). That's a good thing, especially since they both want renewables to be the economic choice (as I do).
Posted: 04:01 am on September 22nd 2017