A True Net-Zero Gut Rehab, New England-Style

Holderness, NH

Sep 27 2010 By Peter Yost | 3 comments

General Specs and Team

Location: Holderness, NH
Bedrooms: 3
Bathrooms: 3.5
Living Space : 3400 sqf
Cost (USD/sq. ft.): $375/sqf

Living space area includes finished basement

Energy Details
Heating degree days: 7,500
Heat loss at design temperature: 23,400 BTU/h
Annual heat load: 8,500 kWh
Annual domestic hot water budget: 2,660 kWh

Design/build services:
Energy consultant: Marc Rosenbaum,


- Basement floor R-value: R-25
- Basement wall R-value: R-40
- Wall R-value: R-52
- Roof R-value: R-73
- Blower door test results: 330 cfm50 (shell area 6,243 square feet)
- Windows: Triple-glazed double low-e Thermotech windows with fiberglass frames
- Window area: 568 square feet
- Space heating system: Water Furnace ground-source heat pump with three 220-ft. deep vertical closed ground loops; heat distributed through in-floor hydronic tubing (95°F water); supplemented by a woodstove.
- Domestic hot water: 2 solar thermal collectors connected to 200 gallons of storage; electric resistance backup.

PV array: 7.5-kW array (Sunpower PV modules)
Annual PV production: 6,800 kWh

- LED lighting
- Ground-source heat pump

Water Efficiency

- Toto Auqia dual flush toilets
- Hot water on-demand recirculation system
- .5 gom faucet aerators
- 1.5 gpm showerheads

Indoor Air Quality

- Mechanical ventilation: Renewaire ERV
- low-VOC finishes

Green Materials and Resource Efficiency

- New roofing: standing-seam steel
- Interior finish: American Clay plaster
- 90% construction waste recycling
- local stone used throughout all landscaping
- all interior doors from salvaged stock
- Forest Stewardship Council Certified (FSC) cedar siding
- FSC hemlock timberframe
- FSC birch kitchen and built-in
- FSC maple closets and built-ins
- FSC pine trim
- FSC wide board antique pine/oak flooring
- Local eastern white pine flooring and siding
- FSC garape deck for porch floors
- FSC heart of pine stairs
- Salvage maple handrails
- FSC SPF framing lumber and interior partitions
- Green roof with low-bush blueberries ()

Even huge north-facing sliders could not overwhelm the most meticulous air sealing and insulating details, moving a leaky '70s ranch to cutting-edge energy performance

By Peter Yost and Martin Holladay

Before retrofit work began, Jane Bindley's 1978 ranch house on the shore of Squam Lake was an ordinary fiberglass-insulated energy hog. Bindley had a dream: to turn her home in central New Hampshire into a net-zero-energy house. How hard could that be?

As it turned out, pretty hard. But with help from a dedicated team of experts and a generous budget, Bindley achieved her dream.

Can a north-facing house be net-zero?
Bindley chose her team wisely. She hired a New Hampshire company, Garland Mill Timberframes, to renovate her home. Ben Southworth from Garland Mill is an experienced design/build contractor. When it came time to choose an energy consultant, Southworth advised Bindley to select Marc Rosenbaum, one of the most experienced designers of net-zero-energy homes in the country.

Southworth doubted that Bindley’s nondescript ranch was worth saving. “I told her, ‘It will cost more money to take it apart than to bulldoze it,’” said Southworth. “But she answered, ‘It’s structurally sound, and I can’t imagine putting the house in a landfill.’ ”

The house sits on the shore of Squam Lake, with a spectacular view of the lake to the north. Most of the home’s windows face the view. “We were killed from a solar perspective,” said Southworth. “The house is up against a big hill on the south side, and the hill has tall trees. We put as many PV panels as we could on the south roof. Since we were aiming for net-zero energy, the PV array defined what our heat load had to be.” The house ended up with a 7.5-kW PV system.

Rosenbaum rose to the challenge. “The house has an incredible building envelope, which was an attempt to compensate for the drawbacks of the site and the north-facing windows,” said Rosenbaum. “The south roof gets a lot of winter shading. There was a low-slope roof with a 5/12 pitch, and we couldn’t raise the roof or the solar array because of zoning restrictions. So we needed a kick-ass envelope. The envelope specs came from doing the math.”

Creating a very tight, well insulated envelope
The home’s vinyl siding and roof shingles were stripped and the interior of the house was gutted. Most of the materials removed from the house were recycled or reused.

Adopting the “chainsaw retrofit” approach, Southworth and Rosenbaum decided to cut off the home’s roof overhangs. Once the seams between the existing sheathing panels were sealed with peel-and-stick tape, the roof and all of the exterior walls were covered with new 6 1/2-inch-thick structural insulated panels (SIPs). The urethane-insulated SIPs are rated at R-35.

Wrapping the home with SIPs was unusual; many builders would have simply wrapped the house with 6 inches of rigid foam. But Southworth is an experienced timber-framer who prefers to use techniques with which he is familiar — and he's used SIPs for years.

Once the SIPs were attached to the framing and sealed at the seams with spray foam, the house already had a pretty decent thermal envelope. But Southworth and Rosenbaum weren’t done. The next step was to fill the 2x6 stud walls with closed-cell spray polyurethane foam, bringing the R-value of the walls up to R-52. The rafters were sprayed with foam until the roof totaled R-73, while the basement walls were sprayed to achieve R-42. The basement floor was insulated with R-25 of rigid foam.

All of the existing windows were replaced with triple-glazed fiberglass windows from Thermotech. Although Rosenbaum tried to talk Bindley into reducing the area of north-facing glass, she didn’t want to give up her dramatic lake view — so most of the home’s glazing still faces north.

Taping the exterior sheathing and spraying the interior with polyurethane foam created a very tight building envelope. Rosenbaum used a theatrical fog machine to track down a few stubborn leakage paths. A pre-retrofit blower door test put the home’s air leakage rate at 4,000 cfm at 50 Pascals. After retrofit work was complete, a second blower-door test showed that the house was now Passivhaus-tight, with a leakage rate of only 330 cfm at 50 Pascals.

Details on those sliding door insulating panels
“But I bet 50% of that 330 cfm is the north-facing sliding glass doors,” said Ben Southworth. “We went through several designs of insulating, air-tight panels for the sliders. Marc really wanted to put the insulating slider panels on the outside, but that was just not practical for Jane.” They ended up with 1.5-inch-thick 4' by 8' rigid polyisocyanurate panels with felt weatherstripping at the perimeter. The panels fit snugly into place in the deep interior pockets of the new door openings.

“I have an easy place down the hall to store the panels and they are easy to move into place,” says owner Jane Bindley. Jane has had no problems with condensation even though the panels are not completely airtight and are sometimes left in place for extended periods of time.

The finishing touch on the slider insulating panels is likely to be…art. Southworth’s lead carpenter wrapped the panels with white housewrap with the idea that a close friend of Jane’s, an artist, will someday turn the insulating panels into a view of their own.

What about the attached garage?
“It was a huge design win!” exclaimed Southworth. “First, moving the garage gave us much easier continuity on the building envelope. But it also eliminated a major source of IAQ concerns in a house this tight.

"Second, the garage was taking up the best south- and west-facing usable outdoor space on the property — space we turned into the organic garden Jane had been dreaming of. Third, we were able to hide the new garage in the bank of an otherwise unusable hill, and its green roof helps to reduce run off from busy Route 3 to the lake.

"And finally, instead of the focal point of the front of the home being double garage doors (that completely hid the front entrance), you approach the home now and are drawn to the garden and front entry and don’t see the garage at all. Making Jane’s home zero energy was essential to everyone on this project, but making it beautiful is arguably just as important.”

What kind of heat pump is most cost-effective?
The house has two heat sources: a wood stove and a water-to-water ground-source heat pump. The in-floor hydronic distribution system uses 95°F water circulating through PEX tubing. Since the water temperature is significantly lower than the temperature for some radiant floors — especially staple-up systems, which sometimes require 130°F or 140°F water — the heat pump's efficiency is much higher than it would be if it needed to raise the water to a higher temperature.

Ductless minisplit air-source heat pumps are much less expensive than ground-source heat pumps (GSHPs). Although a ductless minisplit requires a little more electricity to operate than a GSHP, a net-zero-energy house can provide the necessary electricity by specifying a somewhat larger PV array than would be needed for a GSHP. The cost of the extra PV modules is generally much less than the incremental cost of a GSHP compared to a ductless minisplit unit.

When asked why he specified a GSHP rather than a ductless minisplit, Rosenbaum identified two main reasons:

  • The limited area available for the PV array favored a heating system that used as little electricity as possible.
  • Japanese ductless minisplits rated for below-zero outdoor temperatures were not available in the U.S. when the Bindley project was under construction.

“Japanese minisplit units are getting better all the time, and they cost much less than a ground-source heat pump,” said Rosenbaum. “I predict that the ground-source heat pump industry will be eviscerated by the Japanese minisplits.”

Since domestic hot water needs to be at a higher temperature than the water circulating through the radiant floor, the domestic hot water system is entirely separate from the space heating system. The two roof-mounted solar thermal collectors are connected to two hot water storage tanks; backup heat is provided by an electric resistance element.

True net-zero performance
Utility bills confirm that in 2009, Bindley’s renovated house produced 1,732 kWh more electricity than it used. The extra electricity more than balanced the small amount of firewood (0.2 cord) that Bindley burned. That means that the Bindley house is one of only a handful of U.S. homes able to document 12 months of net-zero-energy performance.

Several factors contributed to the home’s performance, including:

  • The home’s exceptional thermal envelope.
  • The fact that Bindley covers her windows with movable R-7 foam-filled insulation panels at night.
  • The fact that the home is only occupied for about half the year.

Although Bindley sends more energy to the grid than she consumes, she still pays electric bills of $21.41 a month; that’s the minimum fee collected by the local utility, regardless of usage.

Getting to net-zero isn't cheap
Now that the U.S. Department of Energy is informing builders to prepare for a transition to zero-energy design and construction standards, it’s worth contemplating the steepness of the road ahead. Bindley’s house is an exciting example of elegant engineering, but it cost an arm and a leg. Her insulation package cost $110,000; her PV array cost $60,000; her windows cost $37,000; her Warmboard subflooring cost $20,000. The wells for the heat pump along with thermally enhanced grout and the thermo-coupling of the supply and return lines from the wells to the house all cost $30,000. The Waterfurnace unit was $4500. The Vaughn 80 gallon hot water tank for storage of the heating water was about $1000. Finally, the solar thermal system cost about $10,000.

“Depending on how you crunch the numbers, the house cost between $350 and $400 a square foot,” said Southworth. In other words, Bindley’s deep-energy retrofit cost at least $1,190,000.
“The material choices were expensive,” Southworth explained. “Every decision we made was the most expensive option.” According to Rosenbaum, “The energy package could have been done for less money if we had used less spray foam.”

A dream job
For energy nerds, the Bindley job is likely to represent the very archetype, the exemplar, the Platonic ideal of the perfect energy-retrofit job. Jane Bindley didn’t want to build a mansion; she just wanted to turn her 1978 ranch into a zero-energy home, and she had the budget to make it happen.

“Jane Bindley is an amazing person,” said Rosenbaum. “She would show up with coolers full of food and drinks for the workers — with more food than even the construction guys could eat.”

Southworth also remembers the job-site meals. “She would come every Thursday and make lunch for us, using ingredients from Whole Foods,” said Southworth. “She was wonderful.” Southworth also noted that Bindley, a physical therapist, “was always dragging guys off and giving them a massage.”

Talk of the town
Jane Bindley has done more home tours than she cares to clearly remember, but she firmly believes that her home should be an example. “And now, twice a day during the season, the Squam Lake tour boat slows in front of my home as the tour guide points out a true net-zero energy home,” says Jane with well-deserved pride.

Bindley loves her new home. “I once lived in a 1970s house that was very drafty,” said Bindley. “This house is a pure delight in the wintertime, because it is invitingly warm and the air quality is so good. The air is moist and there are no drafts.”

NOTE: For another great tour of this project, go to .

Lessons Learned

One striking lesson from the Bindley job: if you’re aiming to build a net-zero-energy home in a cold climate, your envelope is going to end up looking like a Passivhaus envelope. Although some writers have contrasted the Passivhaus design approach with the net-zero-energy approach, in fact the two design approaches show signs of convergent evolution.

To get to the stringent net-zero-energy goal, you need Passivhaus levels of airtightness and Passivhaus levels of insulation — at least if you expect to fit all of the necessary PV modules on your roof.

Another lesson: if you’re aiming for net-zero energy, renovation may cost more than new construction.

Finally, Ben wanted to make sure that we understood how important Jane's grace was on this project. "It's a wonderful thing when you work for and with a person with as much presence as Jane Bindley. Green building is about integration, making the whole much greater than its parts. You can extend that definition to people; Jane knows how important people are to the whole process and made everyone of us on the job feel valued and part of the whole."

Peter Yost and Martin Holladay

Tags: , ,

Image Credits:

  1. Ben Southworth
  2. Heather Burkham
  3. Fletcher Manley
  4. Jane Bindley

Sep 29, 2010 3:55 PM ET

Is it worth it? In this case, no.
by Drew Jones

As an avid GBA reader and a full-blooded New Hampshirite, I am weary this is a vacation home. I hope I'm wrong, but if I'm right, you really can't claim net zero. Also, at what point do we draw the line on what's green? We all like to get paid, but obviously not removing at least some of an entire wall of north-facing sliding glass doors (despite what the customer wanted) helped achieve this $1.2 mil (low energy) retrofit. Special window inserts- what a joke!

Oct 13, 2010 11:35 AM ET

by David

This article really begs the question of what the definition of a true net-zero energy house is. Do we need to distinguish between "designed for net zero energy" use and "actual net zero energy use"? From my own personal experience I have found that not only does the house need to be designed for net zero energy use, but you also need a net zero energy family to live in it. I certainly do not doubt that Jane Bindley's home has the capability to be a net zero energy home, especially since Marc designed it. But if you are compelled to hang a label on it, looking at utility bills for a 3400 sf vacation home with one part time occupant and then labeling it a true verified net zero home does not seem quite right. It is barely occupied. You even say in your article that one of the factors that contributed to the home’s performance is.... "the fact that the home is only occupied for about half the year". That really puzzles me. If that is design advise then we should all be living outside half the year. I thought we were designing net zero homes for people to live in. So.... what IS right, if we even care? Don't we really need to define what a valid baseline occupancy should be, to use the label " A true net zero home". I would be curious to see a years worth of energy use data on that house after a full time family of four with 2 teenagers were living in it.

Nov 9, 2012 8:32 AM ET

Edited Nov 9, 2012 8:33 AM ET.

What I would do w $1.2 Million ?
by Mike Cartwright

As an engineer this project is a great read, this would have been a dream job. However as someone who lives in a northeast city and see so many homes every day that are lacking windows, insulation, air sealing..... I dream of what if this owner had spent $12K on 100 homes, think of how much more energy/carbon could have been saved. Yes the finished product is a beautiful and extremely energy efficient home, but in the end it is something only 0.1% of can afford. To really make a difference in this world we need to focus on affordable low cost strategies. I think articles like this make "green" buildings even less attractive to the regular person as is suggests this technology is only available to the super wealthy.

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