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1 Answer

Insulating basement foundation

Greetings,

I have read a lot on GBA and a few other trusted resources online and am still not clear. I have an unfinished basement below grade in zone 4 (Minnesota). House was built in 2013. Builder sprayed a black coating on the poured concrete foundation and then applied a 1.5"-2" thick rigid foam insulation to the exterior of the foundation before backfilling (completely below grade basement).

In General questions | Asked By BobTheWeekendWarrior | Sep 19 17
2 Answers

Legalett slab for Sequim, Washington

I am building a home in Sequim, WA. My architect is finishing up the design and construction will begin next year. I plan to use a Legalett raft slab with the air radiant floor heating system. Sequim has a marine climate and gets an average of 16" inches of rain per year.

I am looking for feedback from anyone who has built with a Legalett slab. What was your experience with the vendor and how the slab has performed?

In Plans Review | Asked By David Van Cleve | Sep 18 17
4 Answers

How to protect a wood foundation

My house is a walk-in bungalow built into the bottom part of a hill in 1985 approx. and has a wood foundation.

With the high levels of humidity this year, I was concerned about the indoor air quality. Among other measures, a local contractor has commenced excavating around the house, allowing the foundation to dry and is inserting some drainage around the building. The foundation appears to be in good condition. I am also looking into other measures inside the house.

My issue is I’m now getting very conflicting advice on how to proceed moving forward.

In GBA Pro help | Asked By Chelsea 7T | Sep 19 17
6 Answers

Make up air and multi zone sensor

I do instal 600cfm rangehood in my kitchen. Vented outside of course. I have also motorized damper supplied by the manufacturer and it will be installed on the dedicated make up air duct being controlled by the switch on the hood. This part is clear. What is less understood is the question of preheating this make up air supply. The climate is cold up here and air, if not preheated, will mess up the whole system. Of course, company like Fantech offers elegant solution but... what if... Ecobee makes a thermostat with multi zoning temperature control sensors.

In Mechanicals | Asked By D.Kits | Sep 17 17
2 Answers

Z-girt, insulation board, and metal siding

I'm building a cabin out of Faswall hybrid ICF blocks and plan on adding an additional 3" of Roxul Comfortboard on the outside wall before installing metal siding. I had planned on using one layer of 1.5" Roxul then screwing 2x4 furring strips in place with an additional 1.5" of Roxul in between the furring. But wouldn't it be more efficient to just use metal z-girt strips with a 3" web to support both the Roxul and to mount the siding to?

In General questions | Asked By David Williams | Sep 18 17
10 Answers

Is there a reason people do not use hydraulic cement to parge an entire stone basement?

I have a stone basement in Wisconsin. It's depositing sand along the edges of the walls in various spots. Not bad, and it only leaks a small drizzle of water if there is a huge downpour, but I want a clean water tight basement.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By PFields | Sep 17 17
3 Answers

Pros - How Would YOU Build?

This question goes out to the pros on this site; those who are builders, building science aficionados, or some mixture of the two.

Many folks, myself included, come here with some vague ideas of how they think they would like to build and then post their ideas asking for advice. Instead of starting somewhere and then working backwards, I'd like to know where the pros would start. So here we go:

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Lance Peters | Sep 18 17
1 Answer

Zip vs. Thermo-Ply in retrofit wall assembly

I am a homeowner renovating a 100-year old foursquare in Manhattan KS (mixed-humid, zone 4). We need to remove our wall sheathing to address some dry rot issues, and are taking the opportunity to improve the envelope details and work closer to a pretty-good house.

The walls are 2x4 balloon framing with interior lathe-and-plaster and 1x12 exterior board sheathing. The cavities are insulated with blown cellulose. After repairing the rot, our plan is to add the following layers on top of the existing board sheathing:

1 – ½ Zip system panels with taped seams

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Nathan Bean | Sep 18 17
16 Answers

Insulating a house (remodeling project)

Some background information:

Zone - 5A - Shoreline Connecticut
Construction Year - 1958
House is framed with 2x4" studs, sheathing is 3/4" tongue-and-groove.

I've begun remodeling and I'm currently at the point where I'm ready to re-insulate my master bedroom. My plan is to attack one room at a time and the first is always the most difficult, so anything I do in this room I plan to transition into the other rooms (more-or-less).

My question is, what is the best approach to tackling this project?

In General questions | Asked By Obg8 | Aug 28 17
14 Answers

Rock wool vs Wood fiber

I have what I hope is a fairly basic apples to oranges comparison to throw out to the community here.

All else being equal, in a Cross Laminated Timber (CLT) wall with about 8" of exterior insulation under a rainscreen assembly (see attached detail sketch), what might the relative benefits and drawbacks of rigid rock wool (Rockboard 80) insulation and rigid wood fiber insulation (Homatherm or Gutex).

Rockboard 80 data sheet here:

In Green building techniques | Asked By Ethan T ; Climate Zone 5A ; ~6000HDD | Sep 14 17
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